They let us climb up a few steps, but not all the way to the top. I was surprised at how jagged the outer surface was, despite appearing smooth from the distance.
Yes, this is the most touristy photo I have ever been in! For our credit, though, the sun was scorching, leaving the sand too hot to touch.....so our options for getting around were by horse or camel. When in Rome....
We spent an afternoon walking around downtown Cairo, which isn't very common for tourists as nearly all tourists we saw in Cairo were with a tour group. We wanted to try to absorb the local culture as much as possible, but we kinda stuck out in a town that is 90% Muslim. Emily was especially out of place for not being completely covered from head to toe. We were visiting during Ramadan so the social morals are that it is strictly forbidden for men to even look at a woman.
A walk along the Nile River on our way to the world famous Egyptian Museum...with a view of the Cairo Tower in the distance. Unfortunately, the Egyptian Museum made us check the camera at the door. The museum houses all the artifacts from the Pyramids and local burial sites. One could easily spend a day or more perusing the immense collections of the museum. Our favorites were the mummies and the King Tut room. The gold-enshrined mummy of King Tut is quite impressive with its intricate carvings and hieroglyphics. Even more impressive is the fact that he was such a wealthy and powerful leader at such as young age (became a ruler at 9 years old and died at 18 yrs).
A major turnoff of the city is the overwhelming pollution. After living in Portland, we have become more aware of the environment and the importance of protecting it. One trip to a city this polluted will confirm these feelings. The smog was so dense and the air so acrid, that our eyes would burn and water just from being exposed to the toxic air.
I tried to get a picture of the sunset from our 23rd floor balcony, yet the sun was barely visible through the polluted haze.
After a long day of walking around the city, Emily crashed for a quick nap before dinner. Actually, I was wandering around our room trying to find her. I seriously could not find her because I initially looked in the bed and did not see her. The down blankets and pillows were so plush that she had almost completely disappeared.
The morning smog...yuck. After seeing this, I will never again complain about having to get the emissions tested on the car.
Our next adventure was to browse the local bazaar, Khan al-Khalili, where most of the locals go to buy merchandise and daily provisions. Pyramids excluded, this was probably my favorite part of Cairo. The key is to stay away from the touristy areas selling kitschy stuff and stick to the back alleys where the locals truly shop. You can buy everything from live animals to exotic spices to handmade rugs and clothes. A true cultural experience that should not be missed if you are in Cairo. Here are some representative pics from Khan al-Khalili:
Our last day in Cairo was spent on a whirlwind tour of Islamic Cairo. We visited around 7-8 mosques in one day.....we actually started to lose count. They all had magnificent architecture and their own style as they hailed from different eras.
Interior of the mosque of Mohammad Ali....a common feature of these mosques is the addition of electric lights, which hang from long chains from the ceiling. Personally, I found that the chains and lights diminished the grandiose feeling of the high arched ceilings and painted domes.
The view of the mosque of Sultan Hassan (left) and the mosque of ar-Rifai (right) as viewed from the high Citadel walls. This area is normally off limits, however a bribe to a guard will get you in really easily. Money talks in any language. When traveling, always remember The Golden Rule.....the man with the gold makes the rules. Another thing to know in Cairo is that all prices are negotiable.....you will generally end up spending about half of the original asking price if you bargain. Only a fool pays full price here. At one point on the trip, we spoke to one of the shop owners, and he told us that they have a price for Americans, for the French, and for locals. Guess whom they charge the highest price for? Americans! Besides the fact that some Americans actually pay the high price, it's also partially due to how strong the American dollar is in Egypt (5 Egyptian pounds for every dollar).
A few more pics of the mosques we visited....we had hundreds of pics, and I honestly can't remember which one was which....so I will just show some highlights from each:
Our day concluded with a trip through the City of the Dead. It is a four mile long cemetery that has become inhabited by paupers. The mausoleums were originally designed to give mourning family members a place to stay and pray for their deceased loved ones. Urban sprawl and poverty has forced many families to take up permanent residence here. Some houses are as small as 200 sq ft for an entire family....with no plumbing. The area is so destitute that our cab driver would not even let us venture outside the car for fear of us being preyed upon by pick- pocketing children.
A typical street view in the City of the Dead
Well, this concludes our journey....it was an amazing cultural experience, but we were definitely glad to be back home. Walking through a city and taking pictures with a camera that costs more than most locals make in a month gives you a strange, almost guilty feeling.....and it really makes you appreciate the opportunities and quality of life you have been given. I feel extremely lucky to have been born in a country with educational opportunities and the freedom to pursue my dreams.