Friday, October 23, 2009

Cairo

OK, it has been 2 months since the trip, but we are finally posting the last set of pics. Our Middle East journey resumes in Cairo, Egypt. Seeing the Pyramids has been a lifelong dream of mine, and I consider myself fortunate to get to experience the last of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World still in existence. Pictures cannot do them justice, and I remain fascinated by their mystical, yet simplistic appearance.




They let us climb up a few steps, but not all the way to the top. I was surprised at how jagged the outer surface was, despite appearing smooth from the distance.


Yes, this is the most touristy photo I have ever been in! For our credit, though, the sun was scorching, leaving the sand too hot to touch.....so our options for getting around were by horse or camel. When in Rome....

We spent an afternoon walking around downtown Cairo, which isn't very common for tourists as nearly all tourists we saw in Cairo were with a tour group. We wanted to try to absorb the local culture as much as possible, but we kinda stuck out in a town that is 90% Muslim. Emily was especially out of place for not being completely covered from head to toe. We were visiting during Ramadan so the social morals are that it is strictly forbidden for men to even look at a woman.

A walk along the Nile River on our way to the world famous Egyptian Museum...with a view of the Cairo Tower in the distance. Unfortunately, the Egyptian Museum made us check the camera at the door. The museum houses all the artifacts from the Pyramids and local burial sites. One could easily spend a day or more perusing the immense collections of the museum. Our favorites were the mummies and the King Tut room. The gold-enshrined mummy of King Tut is quite impressive with its intricate carvings and hieroglyphics. Even more impressive is the fact that he was such a wealthy and powerful leader at such as young age (became a ruler at 9 years old and died at 18 yrs).

A major turnoff of the city is the overwhelming pollution. After living in Portland, we have become more aware of the environment and the importance of protecting it. One trip to a city this polluted will confirm these feelings. The smog was so dense and the air so acrid, that our eyes would burn and water just from being exposed to the toxic air.

I tried to get a picture of the sunset from our 23rd floor balcony, yet the sun was barely visible through the polluted haze.

After a long day of walking around the city, Emily crashed for a quick nap before dinner. Actually, I was wandering around our room trying to find her. I seriously could not find her because I initially looked in the bed and did not see her. The down blankets and pillows were so plush that she had almost completely disappeared.

The morning smog...yuck. After seeing this, I will never again complain about having to get the emissions tested on the car.

Our next adventure was to browse the local bazaar, Khan al-Khalili, where most of the locals go to buy merchandise and daily provisions. Pyramids excluded, this was probably my favorite part of Cairo. The key is to stay away from the touristy areas selling kitschy stuff and stick to the back alleys where the locals truly shop. You can buy everything from live animals to exotic spices to handmade rugs and clothes. A true cultural experience that should not be missed if you are in Cairo. Here are some representative pics from Khan al-Khalili:







Our last day in Cairo was spent on a whirlwind tour of Islamic Cairo. We visited around 7-8 mosques in one day.....we actually started to lose count. They all had magnificent architecture and their own style as they hailed from different eras.

The mosque of Mohammad Ali

Interior of the mosque of Mohammad Ali....a common feature of these mosques is the addition of electric lights, which hang from long chains from the ceiling. Personally, I found that the chains and lights diminished the grandiose feeling of the high arched ceilings and painted domes.

The view of the mosque of Sultan Hassan (left) and the mosque of ar-Rifai (right) as viewed from the high Citadel walls. This area is normally off limits, however a bribe to a guard will get you in really easily. Money talks in any language. When traveling, always remember The Golden Rule.....the man with the gold makes the rules. Another thing to know in Cairo is that all prices are negotiable.....you will generally end up spending about half of the original asking price if you bargain. Only a fool pays full price here. At one point on the trip, we spoke to one of the shop owners, and he told us that they have a price for Americans, for the French, and for locals. Guess whom they charge the highest price for? Americans! Besides the fact that some Americans actually pay the high price, it's also partially due to how strong the American dollar is in Egypt (5 Egyptian pounds for every dollar).

A few more pics of the mosques we visited....we had hundreds of pics, and I honestly can't remember which one was which....so I will just show some highlights from each:





Our day concluded with a trip through the City of the Dead. It is a four mile long cemetery that has become inhabited by paupers. The mausoleums were originally designed to give mourning family members a place to stay and pray for their deceased loved ones. Urban sprawl and poverty has forced many families to take up permanent residence here. Some houses are as small as 200 sq ft for an entire family....with no plumbing. The area is so destitute that our cab driver would not even let us venture outside the car for fear of us being preyed upon by pick- pocketing children.
A typical street view in the City of the Dead

Well, this concludes our journey....it was an amazing cultural experience, but we were definitely glad to be back home. Walking through a city and taking pictures with a camera that costs more than most locals make in a month gives you a strange, almost guilty feeling.....and it really makes you appreciate the opportunities and quality of life you have been given. I feel extremely lucky to have been born in a country with educational opportunities and the freedom to pursue my dreams.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Beirut - Part II

I'm finally getting around to posting more Beirut pics......

We spent a day at Eddie Sands - an upscale beach resort located about 30 min north of Beirut. Places like this will definitely change your perceptions of the lifestyles in the Middle East.


Em, Anna, Walid, and Thomas in the infinity pool that spills out onto a Mediterranean beach.

Our camera died, so I had to shoot the rest of the day with Walid's iPhone...until we got a new camera the next day. The sunsets were so gorgeous that I have to show several shots:




The next few days were spent driving around the countryside and trying to soak in all the many wonderful sights.

A drive through the mountains with many panoramic views.

The grapes grow by the millions here.


We spent a day heading up and over the mountains and into the Bequa'a Valley. It is mostly agricultural but is also home to some amazing Roman ruins in the city of Baalbek. We spent most of the afternoon climbing around and discovering the ruins. These ruins alone can justify a trip to Lebanon. I took several hundred pics, but my space is limited here so you will just get a small sample.
Em standing in front of the massive columns. It is hard to believe such magnificient structures could be built without machinery.



They are really not as heavy as they look. ;)

Inside some Roman tombs.

Our next stop in the Bequa'a Valley was the potato chip factory where my brother in law, Walid, is head of operations. We got the royal treatment and scored plenty of free samples!! The salt and vinegar chips were just coming off the line - still hot inside the bag. Yum.

All those salty chips made us thirsty, so we stopped off at Lebanon's most famous winery, Ksara. We took a tour of the caves where they store many casks of wine. These caves are mentioned many times throughout history and date back to the Roman era. The Romans stored their best wines here, as the cave temperature is constant year round.
Em and Anna in front of Ksara winery.

The many bottles of wine stored in the caves. They also had countless barrels. The caves store approximately 2 million bottles of wine!!!!

One too many for this little tyke! ...Just kidding, she fell asleep in the car. We took a tour of the cereal factory, which is also mananged by Walid.

We got up early Friday morning to go watch the kids at their tennis lesson - very cute to watch them play....priceless. I was quite amazed with their technique at such a young age (especially considering the racket is almost as big as they are!). Here are some action shots:




We took another drive up through the mountains - chauffeured by my sister. Some of the sights:
A dilapidated building which still bears the damage from the civil war.

A natural stone landbridge. It spans 62m, is 58m high, and is 17m thick. That's Em on top in the red shirt - for size perspective. We hiked around and climbed underneath. Last time I visited in 2004, there were people rapelling down it....could be a fun thing to try next time we visit?

This is one of the few ski resorts in the Middle East. Because of its exclusivity, it is quite expensive to stay in the lodge. It is a popular destination for the oil tycoons from Kuwait, Dubai, Saudi, etc. Yes, they do get lots of snow here in the winter. Too bad it's summer and I don't have my board with me. :(

We took a walk with the kids to the local convenience store to get ice cream. It is a little scary to drive on the mountain roads. Many of them do not have guard rails, and the road often teeters on the edge of very steep cliffs. Be careful if you look out the window as you are driving!! I guess it's a good thing someone put that large stone there - that should help. :)

Hanging out with the kids....actually the kids are hanging ON me. We were already getting a little teary eyed on our last evening with the family.....gonna miss them a lot.

One final pic with the family. Em and I want to thank Walid, Karen, Thomas, and Anna for being such wonderful hosts. They made this a very memorable visit..... we only wish we could have stayed longer. We finished our Beirut leg of the trip with an amazing dinner with some of Walid's friends (who were gracious enough to pick up the hefty tab too) at a very nice restaurant on the Mediterranean. We then spent the night in Jounieh and had an early flight to Cairo where the adventure continues.....

(...another blog including the Pyramids coming soon)